Colours
Due to the limitations of reproduction and screen resolutions, the silk colours shown may not be exact and should only be used as a guideline. If you require an exact or close colour match, please supply me with a sample of the fabric you would like to match.
The colours shown are just a small range of colours available; if you do not see what you require, please contact me.
As a standard, all silk is commercially dyed. If you require hand dyed silk, please contact me.

Silk types and weights

Filament Silk

White (black also available)	Jasmine: white with a hint of yellow	Mid Yellow: Very pale, but with more yellow tones than Jasmine	Beeswax: A creamy light yellow	Ingot: Yellow with brown undertones; good as an 'old' gold substitute	Salmon: Pale pinky; similar to an exhaust madder bath
Vermillion: Bright, with orange undertones	Rust: dark vermillion; brown undertones	Eggshell: A creamy beige shade with brown undertones	Knight: A good silvery grey	Cigar: Dark brown	Wine: A dark burgundy
Claret: Slightly lighter than 'Wine'	Roseate: A dark red	Glace: Cherry/Pillarbox red	Wire: Grey; quite 'graphite' in tone	Dark Slate: Grey with blue undertones; colour similar to one achieved with madder & woad	Parrot: A pale blue; faded denim
Midnight: A mid 'denim' blue; slight grey undertones	Altantis: A deep dark blue	Baize: A dark, traditional green	Spearmint: Light green with yellow tones	Laurel: Darkish green with bluer undertones	Hessian: A pale colour with green undertones

As a standard, all items are quoted using continuous filament silk, which is perfect for authentic purposes. The silk is strong and smooth, and available in a wide range of commercially dyed colours.
I rarely use spun silk; this is less authentic (except for later periods) and has a fluffier appearance than filament silk. If this is used on any item as standard, it will be stated on the item description.

Filament silk yarn.
Although a smooth filament, this yarn is 3 ply and quite thick, therefore not suitable for highly authentic requirements. However, it can be an economical compromise, and is especially nice for points. Only available in a limited colour range.

920 A good dark blue	938 A plummy wine colour	964 A red with vermillion tones
A few other colours are available, including black and white

Care
Fine silk can easily be snagged; avoid contact with rough edges (such as a broken fingernail, or snagged metal fittings). Small snags can sometimes be gently pushed back into the weave using a smooth needle.
When fittings have been added, use acid-free tissue paper to wrap the fittings when storing; this will help to stop any rough edges of metal snagging the silk.
Although the commercially dyed colours are colour fast, you should keep the silk out of direct sunlight, which will in time, fade the silk. Hand dyed colours will fade, so avoid contact with direct sunlight at all times.
Wash gently in lukewarm water, with a soap recommended for fine silk. Hang to dry, gently reshaping the item. Do not hang above direct heat; this can cause the silk to become stiff. If fitted with permanent fittings, it is recommended that cleaning be done by a specialist, to avoid damage to the fittings, or metal cleaners staining the silk. Likewise, tassels should be cleaned by a specialist cleaner. Blow to remove surface dust, and revive a flat skirt by twirling over the steam of a kettle. Buttons should be removed prior to washing the garment.

Girdles:
Care should be taken when adding fittings. It is possible to pull warp threads when pushing through rivets or pins. If this happens, the weave can usually be reshaped by removing the pin/rivet, and gently pulling the girdle either side of the snag. (In a similar way to that when a knit snags). It is recommended that when buckle fittings are added, that the rivets/pins are smooth edged, and where possible, a guide hole is pushed through the silk using a blunt, smooth item, such as an awl or tapestry needle, taking care to spread the warp threads, not pull them.
If heavy fittings are being added to the girdle, you may wish to re-enforce the area where the rivets are attached. Buckram, linen or other stiff fabric can be used; some fitters have used fine leather.